LES ARCS: 2010/11 Season Review

The best guide to Les Arcs for prospective visitors is in the Where to Ski and Snowboard book (website: wtss.co.uk).  Here are some updates from Les Arcs from the (rather forgettable) season that was 2010/11: 

PARKING

Still much grumping from the locals about the new(ish) parking regime at 1800.  You can still park free at 1600, and also at the tennis courts on the way up to 1800 on the left hand side – assuming you’re early on changeover day.

It's also still free to park at the Funiculaire in BSM.  If you’re skiing on the day of arrival, buy your ticket there – it will then include your journey up the hill.

LIFTS

New lift for 2011/12 at 1600.  This new fast lift will now go to Deux Tetes.  In a way it's a shame as it will make the area served by the old Mont Blanc lift rather less tranquille, but it's a logical development.  Over the last 8 years just about all the key lifts on what is (in my view) the most interesting side of the ski area will have been replaced – ie from 1600 right across to Peisey.

HIGH SEASON

.....there can be 15 min queues.  To avoid these, take the remaining slow lifts (eg Charmettoger, Villards, Renard, Comborciere, anywhere on the Villaroger side).  It gives you a slowcoach, B-road kind of alternative.  Queues for the Cable Car remain hairy for much of the time, high season or not.

PRICES

Ski resorts are never cheap, but Les Arcs seems to be able to serve the full range of customers; from Russians who can’t quite get to Courchevel through middle class French families to Brit university trips.  At the expensive end, Chalets de l’Arc in 2000 is 16-20E for main course.  At the cheaper end, there is the Arcabulle cafe just above which is 4E for a good slice of pizza; it’s 6.5E for a panini at the un-atmospheric but well-located cafe at the top of Col de la Chal.  Down in 1800, Chez Boubou is 9.80E for a plat du jour and, although not technically piste-side, you can ski down to the place Miravidi quite easily.  Hotel de la Vanoise is about 12-13 for plat du jour and very well recommended (just above Peisey lift).  Blanche Muree is still my favourite.  A proper, non-chain, place!

GET UP EARLY 

One day a week there is a trip to start the day with the pisteurs at 0745 (from the Transarc).  10E, coffee and croissants at their hut at 2600m, and first tracks with just the pisteurs for company.  

WEB ETC

Les Arcs’ website is OK but a bit flash and lacking in substance.  Les Arcs TV (the one you watch when staying in resort) is shocking.  Really.  Radio Les Arcs provides the soundtrack and isn’t bad at all as the DJ likes 80s stuff.  You can listen on-line from Britain if you are sad enough....

HOTEL DU GOLF

Hotel du Golf now has a pool and fitness place, so probably the best option for non-skiers who can afford it.  It’s not too expensive out of high season.  They are opening again in summer, so are to be commended. 

FRENCH SKI RESORTS: The Premiership

With both turnstiles and ski lifts closed, the important issues of the day can now be discussed.  Namely: if your favourite French ski resort were a Premiership side, which would it be?  Here’s a starter for 10: 


(1 June 2012: Follow this link for the 2012/13 version)

Man Utd = Val d’Isere

A classic resort; famous around the world, consistently performs at a high level.  Popular with rich people from The South.

Chelsea = Courchevel

Money talks; the domain of well-heeled Russians.  Oddly characterless.  Less affluent folk are scattered in distant suburbs away from the centre.

Man City = Tignes

Lots of investment; lifts now arguably superior to those of its neighbour across the mountain.  Clearly on the up.  Still lacks that je ne sais quoi.

Arsenal = Meribel

Strong Anglo-French links, not as good as thinks it is but is still very good indeed.  Will never go out of fashion.

Tottenham = Les Arcs

Has had its ups and downs over the years, but a steady transformation over last decade - by no means perfect but can mix with big league.

Liverpool = Chamonix.

Fancies itself as the home of mountaineering.  Which in a way it is.  Has a tradition, character, real sense of place that everyone respects - fans all want to visit at least once...

Everton = La Plagne

Was one of the "Big Five" in the 1980s, but no longer.  Shrewd management has papered over the cracks (slow lifts, short runs).

Fulham = Megeve

Location and proximity to nice restaurants is just as important as the skiing.

Aston Villa = Flaine

Has lots of support; good all-rounder and the infrastructure to mix it with the big league.  Could win a trophy under new management.

Sunderland = Alpe d'Huez

Great stadium, all the way to 3,300m; a World Cup venue.  It’s south-facing, though and therefore can lose its best assets towards the end of the season.

West Brom = La Clusaz

Quietly goes about its business with little attention from abroad.  If you look at it in more closely, you’ll find it has a lot going for it…

Newcastle = Val Thorens

Again, a big stadium, with great atmosphere and famous nightlife.   When the sun shines it’s great, but on a cold day...

Stoke City = Les Sybelles

Has no discernible centre; a modest kind of a place.  Has made its mark on the Premiership without anyone really noticing how far they've come.  Top lifts often shut due to wind.

Bolton = Valmorel

In the shadow of its neighbours but well-run and doesn’t get intimidated.

Blackburn = Avoriaz

Has been in Premiership for many years; respected but not really among anyone's favourites.  Are owners putting enough money in?

Wigan = Areches/Beaufort

Few people go there, but those who do enjoy the welcome (and the cheese pies).

Wolves = Les 2 Alpes

One of the oldest in the league - nightlife like the Wild West.  Summer glacier can't hide lack of strength in depth (narrow ski area).

QPR = Les Gets

Not the biggest but there's money there.  Unlikely to be so good late season?

Norwich = Serre Chevalier

Bit of a yo-yo resort between Prem and Championship.  Remote location.  But has strong support, and real character.  And good food...

Swansea = Isola 2000

Also somewhat remote geographically from rest of the league.  Was briefly in the top flight during the 1980s.  More investment has gone in recently; will it be enough to survive…

AND MORE IMPORTANTLY….

Oxford United = Chamrousse

On the Grenoble Road, big university town boasting great ski area.  Was briefly in the top flight; Jean-Claude Killy once skied there.  Has strong following from the locals; could surprise a few people.

Barnet = Ste Foy

Where the ski instructors go on their day off.  Only a few lifts but packs more of a punch than this implies.  Noteworthy gradients.  Local authority resisting its bid to expand.

NEIGE....On The Road

It's the 1st of June, and the snow is falling, as witnessed in this Maurienne village...
http://maurienne.tv/index.php?post/2011/06/01/Neige-en-Maurienne-en-Juin-2011

Meanwhile it doesn't look too seasonal back in Les Arcs....
http://twitpic.com/55e70t

On The Road

For the armchair cyclist, Grenoble Cycling Pages have put together a YouTube channel. The Col du Lautaret tour, taken at the start of May, is v atmospheric.  The music may not be entirely to your taste.

http://www.youtube.com/user/standringr

The End Of Winter

Some would trace this back to late December, given the terrible season that was 2010/11....


Here is the traditional end of season for the ESF - the instructors' race at Valloire - an underrated resort in the Maurienne valley, and home of the mighty Col du Galibier (cf this year's Tour de France....which will see it climbed not once, but twice).


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lELpVep6KYA

Here Comes The Summer

Most resorts - including Les Arcs - are now firmly closed.  Above 1800, the builders are in to make more progress on the new Chantel development.  Over at 1600 a new Mont Blanc lift is planned for 2011/12.

Further north, Les Gets opened a couple of lifts for mountain bikes last weekend, and is planning to open Thursday-Sunday this coming weekend (2-5 June).

Back on snow, Val d'Isere opens its summer skiing at the Col d'Iseran on 11 June - with Tignes and Les 2 Alpes following a week later.

In the meantime, some websites:

www.grenoblecycling.com is full of ideas for cycling right across the Alps - including the Haute Tarentaise.  It doesn't get updated too often, but the latest are now accompanied by videos and satnav reports - recommended!

www.snoweye.com is as comprehensive a guide to webcams as you will find.   Some are turned off for summer (apparently they can be damaged by storms....), but there are still lots there.  Good for seeing how your favourite resort looks like without the snow...

www.lesarcs.com has been upgraded although lacks depth, and could do with a little more TLC right across the site

www.lesarcs.net is an unofficial site which rents apartments etc - though they have good updates on what's happening in and around the resort

www.perso-laplagne.fr OK, so La Plagne may or may not be Les Arcs' local rivals - but this is the best site I've seen from the area: entirely unofficial, with both current gossip, and some history thrown in.  The latest piece covers the redevelopment of Plagne Centre. In French, but there is a Union Jack button which allows for easy translation